Jenni Gilbert There are four very important cell processes that are correlated with DNA damage and ageing of the skin: oxidation, glycation, methylation and inflammation.
In his new book Skin Regimen – The Essential Lifestyle Guide For Skin Longevity and Beauty, Dr David Bollati, founder of Italian-based skincare Comfort Zone (which has just been reintroduced to Australia by BLC Cosmetics), explains that these natural biochemical processes are carried out simultaneously in a continuous cycle.
When the process is disrupted, a series of chain reactions capable of damaging all parts of the cells, proteins, lipids and DNA is set off.
As a result, cells lose homeostasis, balance, function, and start to age. In addition, the body is more susceptible to certain diseases and the skin visibly ages.
Here Dr Bollati describes what happens when “the four killers” go on the rampage:
GLYCATION
At its most basic level, think of glycation as a sneak attack by sugars. When you eat sugars or refined carbohydrates, the body turns them into glucose.
High levels of blood glucose in turn create sugar-coated proteins, which go on to form Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs for short).
The AGEs complexes latch onto receptors and alter the chemical properties of proteins, lipids and DNA. Their presence can lead to stiffening of protein fibres.
At skin level, the most obvious damage directly affects collagen and elastin, causing these essential molecules to lose their characteristic plasticity, becoming rigid and giving way to the formation of wrinkles and reduced capacity for healing.
Damage from glycation isn’t limited to skin. The degenerative process accompanied by glycation compromises the function of bones, tendons, cartilage, teeth, muscle and cardiovascular system.
Research has also shown that chronic high levels of blood glucose could increase chances for developing diabetes and heart disease.
Even though we can’t eliminate sugar completely from our diets – we need glucose to live, it’s essential fuel to our cells – making better lifestyle choices can help.
Eating fewer sugary foods that contain white sugar (or high-fructose corn syrup) and refined carbohydrates is key to helping sculpt the body and skin.
Now that researchers know glycation is a primary cause of skin ageing, creams formulated with compounds that fight AGEs that aim to stimulate the fibroblasts to build new collagen are a powerful weapon.
OXIDATION
Every minute of every day, the cells in our body generate huge quantities of molecules called free radicals.
These are unstable molecules that contain unpaired electrons. Electrons prefer to be paired up with another electron in order to have a balanced electrical charge.
Free radicals will snatch or steal electrons from nearby molecules in order to create stability. This is called oxidative stress – it is not a defect but a natural process.
For the most part, the human body does an excellent job of keeping free radicals in check, naturally programmed as it is with an antioxidant system that can also be reinforced if we provide additional antioxidant agents.
As we age, the body’s ability to control oxidative stress becomes slightly less efficient. Our habits and activities in daily life can contribute to even more oxidative stress, such as smoking, exposure to UV and environmental toxins.
When free radicals attack the different layers of skin, for instance, they speed up the formation of wrinkles and other imperfections. But there is also damage we don’t see, like changes in the macroscopic and microscopic structures of the body in a sub-clinical way.
When free radicals cause damage to lipids of cellular membranes, the defensive barrier is harmed. Such oxidation induces inflammation and causes early onset ageing.
Free radicals also oxidise DNA and RNA – essentially, what constitute our genetic makeup – provoking mutations within the genetic code itself.
Finally, during oxidation, structural (collagen, hyaluronic acid etc) and regulatory proteins are oxidised, causing structural and functional damage to the body, including skin.
METHYLATION
Methylation is happening in your cells right now, billions of times per minute. It influences which genes are activated and which are not. It’s essential for the proper function of almost all of the body’s systems.
It is a biochemical process essential to maintain the functionality of cells.
Vitamins, hormones, neurotransmitters and antibodies work only if methylation occurs correctly.
Unfortunately, as we age, methylation becomes less effective. The result is an increase in the opportunity for poor cellular function and disease.
During methylation, a methyl group, comprising one carbon atom and three hydrogen atoms, get added to a specific spot on our DNA. Where do these methyl groups come from? We get them from nutrients and vitamins B6 and 12 and folate acide in particular.
If a person’s diet lacks these, the body’s methylation process will not function properly.
This leads to poor health, even disease (including cardiovascular disease), and an increase in blood levels of homocysteine – a naturally-occuring amino acid in the blood produced as part of the body’s methylation process.
Doctors use homocysteine as a way to tell if methylation is functioning properly.
An unhealthy diet and a sedentary lifestyle may also contribute to poor methylation.
INFLAMMATION
Inflammation is one of the body’s most important defences against infection and trauma, protecting us against invading viruses and bacteria.
Without inflammation, bruises and wounds wouldn’t heal. When we accidentally cut ourselves, the inflammatory response directs more blood flow to the area of injury; this includes white blood cells, which fight off infection. Doctors refer to this as acute inflammation.
But inflammation can have a dark side. When beneficial acute inflammation becomes chronic inflammation, it can actually fight againt perfectly healthy cells and cause disease.
Medical researchers have learned that inflammatory process, especially chronic inflammation, have been associated with a number of serious chronic illnesses such as cardiovascular disease, osteoporosis, Alzheimer’s, muscle wasting, diabetes and frailty.
This negative response means that inflammation may be an important contributing factor in the damage and deterioration associated with ageing.
The real mystery is whether or not inflammation is a response to ageing or a cause of it, or paradoxically both.
Ageing is characterized by a chronic state of slight inflammation tied to both genetics and the individual development of immune system responses.
One of the main ways to combat chronic inflammation is through healthy lifestyle habits: focus your efforts on relaxing your mind, getting regular exercise and eating foods that contain anti-inflammatory compounds like (like vegetables and nuts).
ABOUT COMFORT ZONE
With its philosophy “Skincare Science With a Soul” and ranges for both skin and body, this Italian brand offers categories that target hydration, anti-ageing, spa and an award-winning organic range; a complete salon solution with a holisitic approach to treatment and results.
