Jenni Gilbert The backs of my hands and arms are a disgrace, in the sense of longtime sun skin damage and age-related fat loss on said backs of hands, which has resulted in sinewy, vein-dominated paws (which is why I have worn OPI Funny Bunny on my nails forever, to detract attention from the paws, and colour chipping from incessant typing).
As a kid riding the bus to the train station to school in 1960s-70s Sydney (it’s like reflecting on pre-history!) the sun seared seared into my arms as I sat in the window seat and then, overall, in the playground.
Even then some part of me thought: “This is way wrong”. Cut to today and I have multi-mottled lizard-like skin on hands and arms.
It offends my being but I have spent so much time, effort and money keeping my face and neck and overall body shape in a semblance of condition for years that I just can’t even think of devoting any more energy to these things.
I am just grateful that my hands and arms work – can do exercise, type, carry grocery bags and do … well … life things.
But this ramble is leading to the point of offering clients hand and arms treatments in your business.
It could be targeted treatment menus or an add-on to a different business model, paid or complimentary.
For instance, a couple of years ago I was invited to have a treatment to mark the launch of Lite Luxe salon in Sydney’s Double Bay.
Says social influencer, former Vogue Australia beauty director now running her own site, Beauticate, Sigoruney Cantenlo: “Tucked away in a sleek arcade is a super speedy new skin treatment concept.
“The chic little salon features two comfy, Danish-designed armchairs each positioned under a supercharged LED Healite II machine, which uses light to rejuvenate your skin in just 15 minutes.
“A long swathe of floaty fabric encircles each chair, chilled music plays and the walls are painted in dove grey. The effect is dreamy and cocoon-like, and a wonderful respite from the daily grind.”
Indeed, it was pure bliss. However, I have had many LED treatments, with great results. It was the add-on that made it truly memorable for me and why I’ve though to mention it now.
While I was just blissing out under the light, my hands and forearms were being massaged. I came away feeling 120 percent (and looking a helluva lot) better from the combo and I could barely recognise why own hands/arms.
So if you want to capitalise on this initiative, take into account these tips from Catherine Masson, of PHYT’S Organic Skincare:
An exfoliation of the skin at the back of your hands is particularly effective because it removes dead skin cells and improves blood circulation, making your hands’ skin look more youthful.
A body scrub will do the job (make sure you use the kind that does not contain plastic beads as they are harmful to the environment) or, alternatively, you can use a facial exfoliant. Keep in mind that as you exfoliate [a client’s] face, you can use the excess products on hands.
Follow the exfoliation with the application of a rich hand cream (or oil) and give them a massage – for professional purposes, PHYT’S Intensive Hand Treatment.
Your clients will be surprised at the effect this relaxing treatment has on their hands and nails, not to mention the overall relaxing benefit.
The hands, like feet and ears, are extremely rich in nerve endings, so massage and pressure points can have significant health benefits.
To massage one’s own hands at home, start from the fleshy part near the base of the thumb, and then work each finger from base to tip.
If clients do this at night, urgent them to wear cotton gloves to bed. By morning their hands will feel super soft and moisturised.
If they have very dryad itchy hands, tight skin or cracks, use a very rich cream such as Phyt’ssima Zones Rebelles or Soin Corps, both with nourishing oils of argan, hemp and shea butter. It will calm the irritations and nourish the skin.
Then when the skin feels better, switch over for a hand cream such as PHYT’s Hand Cream (left).
Hand care is very similar to any beauty routine; once you have found what works for you the key to best outcome is consistency.
BEYOND SKINCARE
Because the skin on the back of the hands is very thin, losing even a minimal amount of fat padding creates an aged look.
Dermal fillers used to restore volume loss in the face are now also helping to add volume to the back of the hands, plumping the skin to help disguise the tendons and blood vessels that become more visible with age and weight loss.
Results can last from 1-2 years. There is also evidence the injections stimulate the body’s own production of collagen and elastin, so as time goes on you may need less filler less often to maintain the youthful look.
LASER
New laser technologies can treat skin texture and tone. Lasers emit very brief pulses of high intensity light that create minuscule pinholes in the skin. As the skin heals by producing collagen and elastin, healthier, younger looking tissue emerges making wrinkles disappear.
The new collagen and elastin are permanent but, since the ageing process and sun exposure continue to break them down, lasting effects vary (up to five years or more). The key to help extend hand rejuvenation outcomes is to avoid sun exposure and to regularly apply a moisturiser.
BROWN SPOTS
Brown spots (or liver spots) are a natural part of the ageing process but studies confirmed they are the results of skin being subjected to almost 24/7 UV radiation which are part of the electromagnetic (light) spectrum that reach the earth from the sun. These wavelengths are classified as UVA, UVB or UVC.
Both UVA and UVB penetrate the atmosphere and play and important role in premature skin ageing. Hands that are not protected by sunscreens and moisturisers are in effect systematically exposed and the appearance of brown spots unavoidable.
For lighter spots you could try gentle peel with lactic or glycolic acid to increase the exfoliation of visible pigmentation – but these treatments must be started early before damage is too extensive.
Use in combination with light peels, you can also find professional skin care products with skin-lightening formulations using plant ingredients such as arbutin, bearberry (PHYT’S White Bio-Active range) and kojic acid. These products provide cumulative lightening results.
For darker and stubborn brown spots, IPL (pulsed light treatment, similar to lasers) can be used to break down the pigmentation into smaller particles that the body immune system can then remove.
Diligent use of sunscreen is compulsory to maintain results or those sunspots will return.
Remember also that because brown spots can take between 20-50 years to appear, even if you have had a treatment to remove the visible spots, others could appear as time goes on.
“For a lot of us there is a disconnect between the hands and the face, because we usually take care of our faces and we tend to forget our hands,” says Catherine Masson. “Taking care of your hands does not take too much time, or money.
“Treat your hands with the same thought and care as you do your face. Apply the same routine to both – that is, exfoliate, moisturise and protect.
“While you can’t stop the natural, biological ageing process, you can take steps to reduce ageing caused by external factors such as pollution, UV radiation and harsh washing up chemicals.
This month’s PHYT’S ingredient: Xanthan gum
Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide – a sugar-based polymer produced by bacteria – which is commonly used as a binding or thickening agent in beauty products.
You will find xanthan gum in many products. For example, mixed with water it creates a gel-like texture by increasing viscosity of the formula – even in concentration of less than 1%!
It is also used in oil-in-water emulsions to help stabilise the oil droplets against merging into each other.It has also the ability to bind ingredients together and has skin-conditioning properties.
Xanthan gum use in skincare is significant for product texture and formulation. It is not known to have any toxic or harmful side effects, and is a popular ingredient for companies producing natural and organic skincare due to its natural origins.
Xanthan gum is thought to have some hydrating benefits for the skin. It is a stable ingredient under a wide range of temperatures and varying pH environments.
People who are allergic to corn, wheat, dairy and soy may suffer allergies to xanthan gum but usually these allergic symptoms occur only after xanthan gum has been ingested (xanthan gum is also used in food).
Xanthan gum is used in most of the gel or creamy formulations, from cleansers, scrubs to masks and serums. It is also found in makeup products.
PHYTS.COM.AU; LITELUXE.COM.AU; ADVANCEDCOSMECEUTICALS.COM.AU/BRANDS/LUTRONIC (for Healite II)
